PHASE 90

 Return to the BUILD


“Fit the rear right wheel arch liner to the main body shell and the trunk floor, then secure and connect all the wiring and fix the main body shell to the main chassis.”

 

Contents


Parts

  • 90A – Rear Right Wheel Arch Liner
  • 90B – Cable Clips
  • 90C – Cable Tie
  • 4x CM screws (+1 spare)
  • 4x HP screws (+2 spare)
  • 4x PP screws (+2 spare)

Materials: Everything in this phase is plastic.

Build


The Rear Right Wheel Arch Liner

Step 01

Retrieve your Body assembly and carefully turn it upside down on a soft cloth. Make sure the Right Headlight and Right Door Switch wiring is tucked down into the rear right wheel opening, as shown:

Like before, I used a piece of grey electrical tape here to hold these wires in place and make sure they stayed where I wanted them:

Take these two wires, along with the Right Tail Light wire, and run them around this post of the Trunk Floor, as shown.

There is a notch for these wires that is not shown in the images of the instructions:

Step 02

Fit the Rear Right Wheel Arch Liner into the inside of the rear right wheel opening, aligning the screw holes:

Secure the Rear Right Wheel Arch Liner to the Main Body Shell with two (2) CM screws, as shown.

This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:

Secure the Rear Right Wheel Arch Liner to the posts of the Trunk Floor with two (2) HP screws, as shown.

This step is what secures the front right edge of the Trunk Floor. Make sure the parts are correctly aligned:

Step 03

Fit the Cable Clips over the raised rectangular ‘pads’ on the Trunk Floor, tuck the wires on each side underneath, and secure them with two (2) HP screws, one on each side as shown.

Even with these screws tightened, my Cable Clips rotated quite easily. This is especially true for the one on the left side since the wires go through at an angle. Keep this in mind when we get to Step 05 as these Cable Clips can get in the way of the tubular frame:

Step 04

Gather all of the wires together at the center and secure them with the Cable Tie.

Because I didn’t know exactly where these wires will plug into the Control Circuit Board, I did not add the Cable Tie here just yet. Instead, I just taped the wires together temporarily:

Step 05

This is a HUGE step in our 300 SL Gullwing build. Typically called the ‘marriage’, it is where the body is attached to the chassis. This can be challenging and it may be helpful to get another set of hands to help you. Take your time and make small movements to prevent damaging any delicate parts!

Retrieve your Chassis assembly from Phase 51. Gently slide the front end of the Chassis into the engine bay of the Body behind the front valance, as shown. You may need to carefully bend the Engine Bay Liners towards the outside of the car to clear some parts:

Then, lower the rear end of the Chassis assembly into the Main Body Shell. Ensure the Luggage Compartment Outer Panel fits between the Rear Wheel Arch Liners. You may need to carefully bend the Rear Wheel Arch Liners towards the outside of the car to clear some parts.

Not only did the Luggage Compartment Outer Panel get caught on the Rear Wheel Arch Liners, but the tubular frame itself. This required much more force bending the Rear Wheel Arch Liners out of the way. Just be cautious here:

With the Chassis placed inside the Body, secure the front end of the Chassis to the Main Body Shell with two (2) CM screws, as shown.

This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:

Secure the rear end of the Chassis to the Trunk Floor with four (4) PP screws, as shown.

Earlier, I mentioned the Cable Clips can rotate and get in the way? That is what happened here (arrow below). I needed to rotate the left Cable Clip out of the way of the tubular frame to get the screw hole in the Chassis close enough to secure this section into place. I could then install the first two PP screws. Also, make sure you pull the wiring plugs up through the Chassis, as shown:

Then, I secured the rear edge of the Chassis to the Trunk Floor with the other (2) PP screws:

Step 06

Connect the 2-pin plug of the Rear Light LEDs wires (blue/white) to socket C of the Control Circuit Board.

Ensure these plugs are correctly inserted, they have polarity and should not be installed backwards:

Connect the 4-pin plug of the Headlight LEDs wires (red/grey) to socket A-B of the Control Circuit Board:

  • Connect the 2-pin plug of the Door Switch wires (grey/white) to socket G of the Control Circuit Board
  • Connect the 2-pin plug of the Interior Light LED wires (green/white) to socket H of the Control Circuit Board

With all of the wiring now connected to the Control Circuit Board, I neatly bundled the loose wiring and secured it with the Cable Tie:

Step 07

Using tweezers, slide the free end of the front left brake hose on the Support Plate and Brake Lines (from Phase 02) through this hole of the Front Left Engine Bay Liner, as shown:

In the same way, slide the free end of the front right brake hose on the Support Plate and Brake Pipe (from Phase 21) through this hole of the Front Right Engine Bay Liner, as shown.

I have no idea if these brake hoses will ever connect to anything later on:

Thoughts


We survived! This was one of the more challenging phases of our build. But, we now have most of the car assembled and looking great!

Next Up


Phase 91 – Frame: Battery Box/Lid (Fuel Tank)

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Building the 1:8 scale Mercedes-Benz 300 SL from Eaglemoss