Return to the BUILD
“Fit the hinge cylinder pistons, then fit the left and right doors to the roof with hinges and cover plates.”
- 63A – Left Door Front Hinge
- 63B – Left Door Rear Hinge
- 63C – Right Door Front Hinge
- 63D – Right Door Rear Hinge
- 63E – Hinge Cylinder Pistons
- 63F – Hinge Cover Plates
- 4x BM screws (+2 spare)
- 8x CM screws (+3 spare)
- 2x NM screw (+1 spare)
Materials: All of these parts are metal.
Magazine – Issue 17
- Assembly Guide: Model Instructions
- Track Legends: Auto Union Type C, Plymouth Road Runner
- The Story of Motorsports: Preparing the Perfect Mixture, Nürburgring
- Ace Racers: Hans Herrmann
- Challenging Circuits: Paris-Madrid 1903
The Door’s Hinges
Each of these hinges is marked – L1, R2, R3, L4. These markings will match markings on the inside of the Roof:
Align the eyelet at the end of a Hinge Cylinder Piston to this post of the Left Door Front Hinge (marked ‘L4’) and secure these together with one (1) BM screw, as shown.
This joint needs to be able to rotate a bit, so do not tighten the screws too much. This is also your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:
Repeat this process with the remaining three Hinge Cylinder Pistons and the Left Door Front Hinge (marked ‘L1’), Right Door Rear Hinge (marked ‘R2’), and Right Door Front Hinge (marked ‘R3’) using three (3) BM screws, one screw for each as shown:
Retrieve your Body and Left Door assemblies. Fit the Left Door to the matching opening on the left side of the car.
Since we have to turn this all upside down to attach the hinges, you may also want to secure the door in place using painter’s tape or similar.
Turn the entire Body assembly upside down. Fit the Left Door Front Hinge (L4) to this location (marked ‘4’) and secure it into place with two (2) CM screws, as shown.
When the model is upside down, Eaglemoss recommends placing a soft cloth down to protect the exterior paint:
Fit the Left Door Rear Hinge (L1) to this location (marked ‘1’) and secure it into place with two (2) more CM screws, as shown:
Retrieve your Right Door assembly. Turn the car upright again and fit the Right Door to the matching opening on the right side of the car.
Again, you will want to secure this door closed so we can turn the car over:
Turn the entire Body assembly upside down. Fit the Right Door Front Hinge (R3) to this location (marked ‘3’) and secure it into place with two (2) CM screws, as shown:
Fit the Right Door Rear Hinge (R2) to this location (marked ‘2’) and secure it into place with two (2) more CM screws, as shown:
Fit a Hinge Cover Plate between the front hinges, covering the posts of the two hinges, and secure with one (1) NM screw as shown:
The tighter these two screws are, the more resistance there will be opening and closing the doors:
In the same way. fit the other Hinge Cover Plate over the rear hinge posts and secure it with one (1) more NM screw:
You should now be able to upright the car and open both of your doors to make sure they stay open. If they do not, tighten the previous NM screws some more:
On my model, I had a few issues here. First off, the paint color on the two doors is not the same – my Right Door did not match exactly. Unfortunately, I have had these parts for longer than Eaglemoss will replace them. It is not a huge difference really, but I wanted to mention it:
A second, more concerning problem with the Right Door was that it did not fit right. This is the alignment when it was fully closed. Unacceptable!
I had to remove the Right Door and bend it a few times to get it to the correct shape. If you have to do this, take your time and be careful:
I have a bunch of catching up to do with this model. I was waiting on some missing parts and then got this weird door. Still, we are making progress and that is always a good thing!
Phase 64 – Interior: Front Roof Liner, Visors/Brackets, Front Hinge Cylinder Barrels, Interior LED/Wires
One thought on “PHASE 63”
Yes, I’m working on this step right now and I do see a difference in the color of the doors and the roof section. Silver is one of those colors that you have to paint all at the same time, otherwise you can get the slight mismatch. This is the hazard of painting silver at different times due to the subscription nature of the kit.
It’s probably not noticeable to the casual observer, but as someone who’s built LOTS of models over the past 40+ years, you pick up on things like this easily.
Also, I did have to tweak the doors somewhat to get the contours to be a bit better. In hindsight, I’d almost rather have a completely raw kit with no paint on it as I can see where there could have been a better smoothing down of the underlying metal. I do get however that they’re trying to appeal to the more inexperienced modeler and not us hard core guys.